Vietnam - Hue

We arrive in Hue after a very scenic bus ride along the coast from Hoi An. After a relaxing evening we get up very early to go and see the sights around this unique and very cultural city on the Perfume River. Our first stop is the citadel and the Imperial city and Forbidden Purple City within its walls. The buildings are stunning and we walk around discovering it in the heat and humidity of the early morning. Our next stop is the Royal Mausoleums of the 19th century Emperors Tu Duc, Gia Long and Minh Mang. An impressive array of buildings, lakes, gardens, sculptures, statues, tombs and temples. Another quick bus ride and we hop off at some old well kept gardens and then have lunch. Our last stop is the Thien Mu Padoga where we observe monks chanting and feel like we are trespassing in a holy place. The last part of the trip takes us back to Hue on a dragon boat along the Perfume River. This name is certainly not apt for the state of the river nowadays.

That night, although tired from all the sight seeing we manage to make it for a night out on the town, visiting some of Hue's bars and clubs (one called the DMZ). The next day is a late start and we hire a moped to get around the city like the locals. The traffic is hectic but it's all good fun if you just keep honking the horn and drive agressively. We visit the citadel at night and it is even more stunning than during the day, as it is lit up beautifully. On the way back we run out of petrol for the moped and the only petrol station we have seen was on the other side of the city. We look around desperately and wonder what we should do. A Vietnamese guy selling stuff on the pavement beside us starts laughing and we look around. He produces a litre of gasoline from under his table and asks if we would like to purchase it. We look at each other in disbelief as he saves us from pushing the moped across town. Incredible good luck!

On our final day in Hue we visit the Dong Ba market, a hectic place full of any type of food and junk you could possibly want to buy. The smells are intense at every turn and the locals heckle for your business. Afterwards we drive to the other end of the city to pay a quick visit to the Ho Chi Minh museum. It seemed fitting to do that here as he went to school here in his early days. It's a small museum, but very interesting.

After a lot of trouble trying to get bus or train tickets out of Hue, we manage to secure places on a sleeper bus heading to Hanoi that night. The journey should take about 12 hours. Of course the bus is delayed as every journey in Asia so far and we get away about 4 hours later than scheduled. The bus is an actual "sleeping bus" with beds for about 40 people. They are designed for local people though, and I don't really fit into the bed, making for an uncomfortable night's sleep. As I lie awake listening to music, I see Nuria is fast asleep. It's about 2am and I wish I could fall asleep too... Suddenly there is a huge thud as the bus impacts with something, then another one almost immediately afterwards. I sit up and know something bad is happening. The bus veers left and then right and Nuria sits upright and we grab on to each other. After carreering down the road and swerving all over the place, the bus comes to rest about 100m after the initial impact. The driver was incredibly lucky to maintain control over the vehicle. We are at the back of the bus and look out the window to see two dead water buffalo lying in the road bwhind us. People start to descend from the bus onto the dark road outside. The front of the bus is wrecked and the bumper is hanging off. There is a hole in one side and some of the lights are missing. As we wait for the police to come, we walk back to where the buffalo are lying. It is complete carnage, so we don't stay to look at it for long. At least they died instantly and did not suffer too much. The police arrive and tell the driver he is not to continue the journey, so we pull in to spend the night. After a while the police leave and the driver starts the engine and drives on with one light. After an epic journey we eventually arrive in Hanoi around 15h, only 9 hours later than scheduled.

Vietnam - Hoi An

The bus journey from Vientiane to Da Nang was incredibly long but not as uncomfortable as expected. After hanging around the bus station, we left a few hours later than expected. Arriving a the border around 4am we had to wait until it opened around 7.30am. After more waiting and standing in line for a while we left Laos and got stopped again about 1km further down the road at the Vietnamese checkpoint. It was fairly chaotic there and after filling out various forms we handed our passports over to be checked by immigration. There was some problem scanning Nuria's passport and she was escorted to a room behind the building. Of course I didn't know what was happening and just had to wait. After some intense questioning, it became clear that they knew a lot about Barcelona FC and the tone became more amicable and she was allowed to go. Shortly afterwards though our bags were removed from the bus and thoroughly searched. Eventually we were allowed to enter Vietnam more than 6 hours after arriving at the border. The journey continued and we arrived in Da Nang in the early evening. The place was totally non touristic and we stayed in one of the dirtiest hotels yet. The city didn't appeal to us much, but was a good insight into life in Vietnam. The next morning we visited the museum with the most Cham artefacts on display from that era. After walking around the city all afternoon it was time to depart for a nicer location: Hoi An, a small town about 1h south and near the beach.

We checked into a nice hotel near the old town and spent a few days relaxing. Hoi An is famous for it's tailors and getting good quality clothes made as a fraction of European prices. I got measured up for a suit and shirts, picked the material I wanted and came back to collect the clothes about 6 hours later. A perfect fit! Nuria got shoes made to order, another bargain. The next day I signed up to do the last diving of this trip. A day tour out to the beautiful Cham islands where I completed 2 dives of over 1h each. We had lunch on a lovely white sand beach and chilled out in hammocks between dives. Nuria spent the day at a traditional handicraft village and then shopping and cycling around the town. We also spent an afternoon on the beautiful beach of Cua Dai. The heat was intense and there was no respite by jumping in the water, which must have been over 30 degrees. A really nice place and only half an hour away by bicycle. The final morning was spent lazing about as the whole town was experiencing a power cut. No air con, no fans, no ATM's, no internet...nothing. We left after lunch and took a bus 3 hours north to Hue, near the former demilitarised zone that divided north and south Vietnam during the American war.

Laos - Vang Vieng to Vientiane

After a couple of days in Luang Prabang we caught a minibus heading south to Vang Vieng. The journey took around 7 hours as we snaked our way through the mountains and jungles of northern Laos. There were several stops en route to take in the scenery, eat at the village market stalls, and also so that the driver could deliver vegetables to some of his friends.

Vang Vieng is a small town consisting of only a few streets beside the river. The main attraction here is to float down the river in the inner tube of a tyre. Sounds simple enough. However, there are around 10 "bars" on the way down the river, each one with different swings and jumps. The whole event is basically a pub crawl, the difference being you float from one bar to the next instead of walking. We run into the Canadians and the Dutch from

the slow boat and 9 of us sign up to go the next day. In the morning we take a tuk-tuk a few km's out of town to the start. There are aerial runways and swings and people launching themselves into the murky water at every

available opportunity. Lao kids wait along the banks of the river and hold out long bamboo poles, so that people can grab on and then they pull them to shore. The organisers request about 30 cents per jump, or it's free if you buy a beer Lao or whiskey shot. After the first few stops it was obvious that this was going to be messy, as there were around 200 people on the river. Alcohol, jumping and a fast flowing river...the safety issues were

evident. There was a great party about half way down, so we ended up staying there longer than expected. On the last jump of the day I slipped off awkwardly and flopped into the water, losing my wrist watch in the muddy river. Anyway, we lost track of time and this meant that we

actually ended up floating down the river in the dark. After some uncertainrty we clambered out before arriving in Vang Vieng and got a lift back in a tuk tuk. Needless to say it was an early night.

The next day was spent recovering and relaxing and organising our escape. The bus ride to our next stop, the capital Vientiane, was about 3 hours. Hovever we decided it would be more adventurous to kayak most of the way. There was a tour group going the following day, so we arranged to go with them. The tuk tuk delivered us and the kayaks to the Namlik river, the starting point. Our bags and the driver would meet us at the other end and leave us at the fountain in the centre of Vientiane. It was a strenuous trip, paddling downstream and hurtling through a few class 4 rapids. The stop for lunch was fantastic, with the local guids providing a full on barbecue on the banks of the river. Afterwards a few jumps itnto the river to cool off and it was time to paddle again. We arrived in Vientiane around 17h, completely exhausted and aching all over. It was worth it though and the day had been a real adventure.

Vientiane is slightly dull and for a capital city there is not much happening. After a day and a half looking around we decide to move on. Our next stop is Vietnam, so we arrange tickets to Da Nang on a local bus. There are no luxury busses for this journey, so it will be 24h the hard way. No false impressions about how this journey will be...

Thailand - Laos

We arranged to get picked up by minibus around lunchtime to leave Chiang Mai and travel 6 hours to the town of Chiang Khong on the Thai - Laos border. A pretty uneventful place, but we were stuck there for the night as we had to cross the river to the Laos side the following morning. On one side of the river the Thai authorities gave us our exit stamp. Then we clambered into a rickety old boat and crossed the river in about 5 minutes. There is no bridge, but if they get one it will make the crossing less interesting. Once at Huay Xoi on the Laos side of the river we go through the border formalities again and end up waiting around for a while. We have tickets for the slow boat to Luang Prabang in northern Laos, a two day boat journey along the scenic Mekong River. The transfer to the boat is interesting as they manage to pile about 9 of us with backpacks into the back of a pick up truck. The boat is supposed to leave at 11h and we are half an hour early. It is actually 12h by the time they eventually set sail, and everyone is sweltered in the heat. There are about 80 people on board with one toilet and a noisy engine. The boat meanders along the river at a very leisurely pace and the journey is uneventful. At aroud 18.30h we arrive at the village of Pak Beng, our resting place for the night which consists of guest houses and restaurants. We check into a clean hotel for about 2 Euros and head off for dinner with some of the people we met on the boat. The locals try to sell evryone opium and grass and are fairly annoying about it. They also tell us that it is another 9-10 hours to Luang Prabang. The tour company where we got the tickets told us 4 hours, so we are hoping for a good average of the two. We head out for dinner with some people from the boat. Without warning all the electricity goes off at 22h. We thought it was just temporary, but they actually shut down the generators at that time every night. The fan in the room obviously wouldn't work, so it was an uncomfortably hot night. For 2 Euros for a double room, it wasn't bad though.

The next morning they pack the boat with over 100 people. Just when you think it can't be possible to get more people on, they squeeze on an extra few. The boat leave around 10h and we again cruise gently down the Mekong. We arrive in Luang Prabang around 6.5 hours later, so everyone was happy. We check into a nice guest house and go out to the night market and then for dinner. The next day is spent wandering around the town to the Grand palace and various temples and Buddha statues. It's hotter than ever and the heat saps our energy very quickly, making for a lazy afternoon and evening.



There's not much happening here and the excursions are similar to Chiang Mai. We'll hang around for a few days and then travel down to Viang Vieng, the tubing hub of Laos.

Thailand - Chiang Mai

We arrived in Chiang Mai after a long and uncomfortable 12 hour bus journey. We checked into a cheap hotel near the city centre and checked out what we could do here. There were many options for tourists but we decided that it was time to learn something. We enroled on a Thai cookery course and a Thai massage course. In the afternoon we catch up on some well needed sleep and then make our way to the Night Bazaar. The night market is really interesting and huge. with people selling all sorts of stuff. However tempted we opt not buy anything, thinking on the weight of our bags and having to cart the items the whole way home overland... At least that theory works the first day...let's see if it lasts.

The cookery course starts early in the morning at a location just outside the city. During the day we cook 6 different dishes (soups, curries, spring rolls, salads, desserts). I also learnt to carve vegetables! When we are not cooking, we are stuffing our faces... The whole day is a real success and very enjoyable with the teachers and the other people in the course.

The next day was also an early start as we made our way to the Jera massage school. We had booked to do 2 different massage courses. Nuria took one to learn the art of Thai massage while I spent the day learning about reflexology and massaging feet. It was a long day and a lot to take in but well worth it. Apparently it just takes practice, so it looks like Nuria's feet will benefit for the restof the trip!

Chiang Mai is far from the hecticness of Bangkok and we are enjoying the more laid back attitude here. There are many tour operators offering jungle tours into the surrounding hills, so we opt to do a one day adventure. We leave the city around 8am and head 1.5h north where we reach an elephant camp. From there we climb on top of these huge elephants and ride 1 hour through the jungle. Progress was slow however, as these creatures eat almost constantly. I was sitting on the neck, so was constanlty being hit by the huge ears and it's trunk sprayed me with mud as it searched for the bananas we had. A fun ride though. After disembarking from the elephants, we hiked a short distance and then made a river crossing via a cage attached to an aerial runway. The van collected us on the other side and we were driven to the start of the short trek. We hiked for about 2hours through the dense jungle in extreme heat and humidity. I don't remember sweating that much in a long time. We stopped at a hut for a traditional dish of Pad Thai noodles and then plodded on. After walking through some difficult terrain over boulders and across streams we finally made it to a large waterfall and rock pool. Desperatly longing to cool off we all jumped in and splashed around. After thism refreshing break we heading back down the path we had come up. After 5 minutes it was tempting to just turn around and go back to the waterfall again. We then drove down to a white water rafting station and donned life vests and helmets and took a crash course on how to navigate a class 4 rapid. It was a rough ride down the river for about 1h, but exhilarating. After pulling in we exchanged the rubber dingys for the old style Thai bamboo rafts. We then continued the journey another 20 minutes downstream on these, almost ha;f submerged in the water. That night we returned to Chiang Mai utterly exhausted, but happy with our action packed day.

The following day is to be our last day in Chiang Mai, so we decide to take it easy and sort out a few things. Then we hire a moped and cruise the city for the remainder of the day. Of course we get lost but have a great time and see places we would otherwise have missed. That evening we make a final visit to the Night Markets and buy some stuff. Afterwards we meet up with a few German girls from the jungle tour, have a few beers and watch a live band in the Heaven Beach bar.

Thailand - Bangkok and the islands

I arrived in Bangkok in the afternoon (26th June) and made my way to the Khao San Road. This bustling street is the main traveller area in the city, full of hotels, bars, markets and hawkers. Not wanting to spend too much time in Bangkok I arrived with no real plan on what to do, but I had a week to do it before coming back to meet Nuria. After spending the day in the city checking out the options, I decided to venture south to the island of Koh Tao in the Gulf of Thailand. The aim was to do some more diving and hit the full moon party on Koh Pangnan, an ajacent island. I signed up to stay at the Coral Grand Dive resort and to do 6 dives with them. From Bangkok I took an overnight bus for about 9 hours to Chumporn, and from there the high speed catamaran to make it to Koh Tao by 11am the next day. Too tired from the journey to dive that afternoon, I lazed by the pool and then on the beach.

The next day I awoke at 6am to check the eqiupment and go out on the dive boat. The first 2 dives were incredible with excellent visibility and numerous sharks. That proved to be the best diving over the next few days, as the visibility deteriorated with the weather. On the Friday night I met up with some of the other divers and we caught the catamaran over to Koh Pangnan for the full moon party. It was apparently the 20th anniversary and some 15,000 people were there. It was what it was...an all night rave on the beach with loads of wasted people. The next morning I returned to Koh Tao and recovered. On the Sunday I finished off the diving and relaxed. The next morning it was time to repeat the journey back to Bangkok, arriving around 9pm.

The following morning I awoke early and made my way to the airport after breakfast. Incredibly excited because I was going to meet Nuria and we hadn't seen each other since I started the trip. I must admit that I was positively nervous waiting in the arrivals hall. We meet and everything was fantastic again. That night we headed out to Patpong and celebrated my birthday in style ;) That Nuria came out to Thailand was the best birthday present I could have wished for...

The rest of the week was filled with sightseeing in Bangkok (mosty temples and the Grand Palace) and making our way around the city in Tuk-Tuk's (small 3 wheel vehicles). We also spent a lot of time shopping and barganing at the markets. The remainder of our time was spent at the massage parlour, relaxing by getting Thai and foot massages. I think that was the highlight of Nuria's time in Bangkok!

After waiting almost 4 days we collected our passports from the tourist agency. We had left them there to obtain the necessary visas for Laos, Vietnam and China. The journey can continue!!

We decided to leave the big smoke ASAP and get the overnight bus to Chiang Mai, a more cultural city in the hills of Northern Thailand.

Singapore

After Indonesia I flew back to Singapore for a few days to meet up with my Irish friends Rachel and John, who are ex-pats living and working there. From the airport I headed to their flat and spent a relaxing evening catching up. The next day we spent in the blistering sun watching the Guinness Asian Gaelic Games. Not the most touristic thing to do in Singapore, but a good way to spend the day... The games were a huge success and we had an enjoyable time there. Afterwards we went over to Santosa island for a beach party, complete with buffet and live music. The party went on until about 5am. The night time temperature was pretty much the same as during the day, so very hot and sweaty on the dancefloor (which was the beach).

The next day I went around the city for a while and took the dog for a walk. On Tuesday it was time to move on again. Next stop Thailand and Bangkok.